FASHION AND SATIRE: Drawings of Orson Lowell and Charles Dana Gibson

The exhibit pairs a collection of satirical illustrations with Gilded Age fashion pieces and accessories. Focusing on the life of “high society” in New York City, the illustrations invite the viewer to understand fashion as a vehicle for representing and interpreting societal ideals in the Gilded Age.

Orson Byron Lowell and Charles Dana Gibson were two of the most influential illustrators of the late 19th and early 20th century, working from about 1890 to 1930. They created fashion-filled compositions that linked dress and witty social commentary. Their observations about people in society and their foibles were artfully represented in popular publications like The Saturday Evening Post, Ladies Home Journal, Vogue and the original Life magazine.

The exhibition juxtaposes about 50 Lowell and Gibson illustrations with actual period costumes and accessories, displayed on mannequins or in cases, set up in “vignettes” adjacent to the illustrations. This not only brings the illustrations, in effect, “to life” in three dimensions for the visitor; it also allows the visitor to see the historic clothing as part of a broader context of Gilded Age society in New York, as well as inherently beautiful artifacts in their own right.

Costume pieces featured in the exhibition range in opulence from a beaded silk chiffon flapper dress and a silk satin wedding dress to both men’s and women’s wool one-piece bathing suits. Accessories such as a hand painted silk and wood fan, a fancy velvet and ostrich feather picture hat and a number of decorative walking sticks also help bring the illustrations to life.

The exhibition comes to the Society from the Jean S. and Frederic A. Sharf Collection, the American Textile History Museum in Lowell, MA, and the Lasell College Fashion Collection and Lasell Archives in Newton, MA. It also includes several pieces from the Society’s Permanent Collection.

Charles Dana Gibson
(1867–1944)
“Her Heart Is in the Kitchen”
Collier’s Weekly magazine, 1904
Reprinted in “Everyday People” by C. D. Gibson
Pen and ink on paper
Donated by the artist
039.014

Charles Dana Gibson
(1867–1944)
“At the Recital”
Pen and ink on Bristol board
Donated by C. D. Williams
043.001

Orson Byron Lowell
(1871–1956)
“The Jury”
Caption: “We, the members of the Jury, find the defendant Not Guilty.
On the first ballot the vote was eleven for conviction and one for
acquittal.”
Possible Illustration for Life magazine.
Pen and ink on Bristol board
Donated by the Medical Illustrators of New York Fund
081.050

Orson Byron Lowell
(1871–1956)
"Family arrives at party on the wrong evening"
Caption: “Jenkins and his wife and daughter do great work on their
costumes for the Von Welters’ fancy-dress party, but the effect is
somewhat marred by their turning up on the wrong night”.
Life magazine, c. 1910
Pen and ink on drawing paper
Donated by Anelle Miller
2011.055

 

Exhibit Info

Dates

September 05, 2017 to October 29, 2017